7712 Harford Road
Parkville, MD 21234
Baltimore County
Phone: (410) 663-4907
Fax: unknownWebsite: no website on fileEmail: no email on fileHours: unknown
Linway Lounge - About Us
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by Loyd Wunsch on Bruno's has gone through quite a few changes in recent years. I came here a few times pre-renovation and always dug the old school vibe and great live jazz. Post-renovation, I came here a few times for Jazz Mafia Tuesdays. When the Jazz Mafia moved on, I didn't have much reason to come here. The food was never a draw- live jazz was always the main attraction. That has all changed. I don't think they book live music anymore at Bruno's (although they do have some great bay area DJ's on some nights- notably B. Cause and Teeko). But, as of this past week, the food is officially a very good reason to put Bruno's back on your radar. Ryan Ostler and Katherine Zacher have taken over the Bruno's kitchen. Ostler and Zacher bring with them an impressive resume- having worked at Boulevard, Firefly, Range, Quince, and Serpentine, among other fine SF restaurants. Most recently, the couple's soulful cuisine turned the Broken Record- a well-loved neighborhood watering hole in the Excelsior/Crocker-Amazon- into a genuine foodie destination. Ostler masterfully mans the smoker, turning out some of the best barbecued meats I have ever had the pleasure of gnawing on. Zacher applies her impressive pastry skills to breads and desserts. Between the two of them, they turn out some of the best bar food in San Francisco. During their all-too-brief (8 months?) run at the Broken Record, Ostler and Zacher put the Excelsior back on the culinary map, garnering glowing write-ups in the Weekly, 7x7, San Francisco Magazine, Tablehopper, etc. Unfortunately, the pair burnt the candle at both ends for too long and decided this past summer to take some much needed time off. They went on a barbecue pilgrimage through the southern United States, and took some well-deserved personal time. Their loyal fans, myself included, waited hungrily for them to re-emerge. And re-emerge they have, refreshed and recharged. I was lucky enough to attend a preview of their food at Bruno's last week and am pleased to report that they have not lost a step. The menu will be familiar to anyone who got to know their food at the Broken Record. The amazing pulled pork sandwich ($8) is back, as are Ostler's mouth-watering ribs and brisket. Both of these are available in plate form, with choice of several sides, for $14-$16. At the preview, Katie H. had the brisket and I had the ribs. Both were the finest renditions I have had anywhere in the Bay Area, hands down- subtly flavored, melt-in-your-mouth, slow-smoked meaty perfection. Our sides- brussel sprouts and cheesy jalapeno grits- were also excellent. We also sampled some appetizers- a "BLT" salad and fried green tomatoes. The salad consisted of two grilled wedges of romaine with chunks of smoked bacon, tomatoes, and croutons in a delicious, spicy, creamy, dressing. It was something new to me and quite successful. The tomatoes were also delicious (but HOTT! - careful biting into these!) - crisp and juicy and lightly crusted in a flavorful cornmeal breading. The only missed mark of the night for me was the dill aoili that accompanied the tomatoes- the tomato's flavors were overwhelmed by the dill. The vegetarian entree option was a stuffed artichoke, which looked delicious. There were also quite a few other appetizers and sides (Ostler's famous Frito pie, pesto mac n' cheese, etc.) filling out the menu. For dessert, Zacher prepared a quince-apple tart and a chocolate-covered peppermint moon-pie. Of course, we had to try both. Apparently, the moon-pie is 100% house-made, including the marshmallow. I'm not sure if that means Zacher is stirring up a bubbling cauldron of horse hooves in the back, and I frankly don't care- it was delicious. The tart was a revelation- chewy, carmelized quince, perfectly cooked apple, and Zacher's impeccable crust. They were still working out some service kinks at the preview, which was to be expected. Hopefully once they get a little more settled these will get sorted out. The food is so great though that nothing else really matters (and prices are the same as they were at the Record- i.e. very reasonable). Bruno's also has a very respectable wine and beer selection and a well-stocked bar. The chefs have a much bigger kitchen to work with than they did at the Broken Record and it seems to be a more comfortable space for them. Bruno's central location will inevitably bring Ostler and Zacher more well-deserved business and attention. Hopefully they won't overdo it, will add whatever staff they may need, and will stick around for a long, long time. For now, the kitchen at Bruno's is open 5:30-10:30, Wednesday through Sunday.
by Wendu J. on Concierge recommended this place. Great fried green tomatoes. I had the shrimp and scallops and my husband had the fried chicken. Chicken was juicy and tasted great. Shrimp and scallops were good. The grits were terrific. Didn't care for the bread pudding, but loved the orange pie. Service was incredible. Would definitely go back if in Atlanta again.
